Tuesday, 3 February 2026

TRAVEL TUESDAY 535 - CEFALÙ - SICILY, ITALY

“To have seen Italy without having seen Sicily is not to have seen Italy at all, for Sicily is the clue to everything. The purity of the contours, the softness of everything, the exchange of soft colors, the harmonious unity of the sky with the sea and the sea to the land… who saw them once, shall possess them for a lifetime.” - Goethe
Cefalù, classically known as Cephaloedium (Ancient Greek: Κεφαλοίδιον, romanized: Kephaloídion), is a city and comune in the Italian Metropolitan City of Palermo, located on the Tyrrhenian coast of Sicily about 70 km east of the provincial capital and 185 km west of Messina. The town, with its population of just under 14,000, is one of the major tourist attractions in the region. Despite its size, every year it attracts millions of tourists from all parts of Sicily, and also from all over Italy and Europe. It is one of I Borghi più belli d'Italia ("The most beautiful villages of Italy”).

Of Siculian foundation, in the fourth century BC the Greeks gave the indigenous settlement the name of Kephaloídion, evidently derived from its situation on a lofty and precipitous rock, forming a bold headland (Ancient Greek: κεφαλή,
kephalḗ, 'head') projecting into the sea. After the fall of the Western Roman Empire, the town remained part of the Byzantine Empire and the settlement was eventually moved from the plain to the current spur for defence.

In 1063, the Normans captured it. In 1131, Roger II, king of Sicily, transferred it from its almost inaccessible position to one at the foot of the rock, where there was a small but excellent harbour. There he ordered construction of the present Norman-style cathedral. In addition to Arabs, the area was still inhabited by its original Greek speakers (today called Byzantine Greeks, then called Rûm i.e. 'Romans,' by the Arabs), and these Christians were still members of the Greek Orthodox Church. Between the 13th century and 1451, the city was controlled by different feudal families, and then it became a possession of the Roman bishops of Cefalù. During the Risorgimento, the patriot Salvatore Spinuzza was shot here in 1857. Cefalù became part of the Kingdom of Italy in 1861.

Cefalù Cathedral (Duomo) is a UNESCO World Heritage site and Arab-Norman masterpiece featuring stunning Byzantine mosaics, including the Christ Pantocrator. La Rocca is the mountain towering over the town, offering a steep climb to panoramic views and ruins of the Temple of Diana. Spiaggia di Cefalù is a long, popular sandy beach bordering the town center. Lavatoio Medievale is a medieval, covered washhouse built on a river, formerly used by local women. Old Town (Centro Storico) with its maze of narrow, photogenic streets filled with shops, cafes, and restaurants is a highlight. Museo Mandralisca known for its collection of archaeological finds and a portrait by Antonello da Messina should also be visited.

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